South Korea  may not leap to mind as a hotbed of castles, but in fact the country is  flush with fortress towns built to thwart Japanese pirates. Instead of  Braveheart-style stone fortresses, however, in Korea castles resemble  elaborate pagoda-type buildings, surrounded by thick stone walls. The  best preserved of these is in the town of Naganeupseong,  a three-square-mile gem nestled in a valley beneath some low-lying  mountains near the southwestern city of Suncheon. As remarkable as it is  unpronounceable, Naganeupseong (nagan means "safe and pleasant" and seong means "castle")  was built in 1397 and still has a couple hundred residents living in  its hub of 30 or so thatched-roof adobe houses. Locals work in  tile-roofed shops linked by pencil-thin stone alleyways, all of which  lead to the town's focal point: the Nakpung-ru Castle. Most weekends,  visitors can catch a changing-of-the-guard ceremony in front of its  pagoda-style entrance, and every October, the town draws about 200,000  tourists to its Namdo food festival, where regional favorite dishes,  such as sanchae bibimbap (a bowl of warm rice topped with vegetables), are served and traditional music is played on the 12-string gayageum.
 

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